Con­tin­u­ing the top­ic of kitchen elec­tri­fi­ca­tion, begun in the arti­cle on light­ing, I want to intro­duce you to the basic skills of cal­cu­lat­ing the load on the kitchen elec­tri­cal net­work. Why is this need­ed? Yes, just to under­stand dur­ing the oper­a­tion of sock­ets!

It turns out that not every out­let can include every­thing you want.
First you need to make a list of all elec­tri­cal appli­ances that will be present in the kitchen, includ­ing light­ing and those that you would like to see here in the most rosy per­spec­tive.
To make it eas­i­er to cal­cu­late, I sug­gest using a table.
The sequence of sock­ets is deter­mined by the order of con­nect­ing kitchen devices accord­ing to tech­no­log­i­cal process­es. In oth­er words, you should first clear­ly define the arrange­ment of fur­ni­ture in the kitchen with ref­er­ence to the work­ing tri­an­gle, and only accord­ing to this scheme is the con­nec­tion of sock­ets.
Like every­where else, there are rules and restric­tions.


  • one sock­et and one plug sock­et — as they say in Odessa, two big dif­fer­ences;
  • the sock­et is a con­nec­tion point to which one dou­ble (triple, if ground­ed) wire leads, and it can have from one to five sock­ets for plugs;
  • the max­i­mum pow­er of the out­let accord­ing to the Euro­pean stan­dard, sub­ject to the con­nec­tion of a wire of the cor­re­spond­ing sec­tion of 3500 W, in fact, it is worth start­ing from this when cal­cu­lat­ing the num­ber of out­lets;
  • keep in mind that domes­tic sock­ets and stan­dards are designed for a max­i­mum of 1300 W;
  • for the kitchen choose sock­ets with a mois­ture-proof hous­ing, cov­er and rub­ber seals;
  • for a ver­ti­cal arrange­ment, sock­ets with plug planes turned at an angle are suit­able — in such plugs with wires will not inter­fere with each oth­er.
ALLOWED: con­nect sev­er­al low-pow­er appli­ances to one out­let, if their total pow­er does not exceed the rat­ed pow­er of the out­let.
A SMALL DIRECTION: in order to under­stand why some devices can be plugged into a par­tic­u­lar out­let, while oth­ers can­not, you should remem­ber physics, and if you don’t remem­ber, it doesn’t mat­ter. I’ll tell you in my own words.
The wires in the elec­tri­cal wiring have a dif­fer­ent cross sec­tion (thick­ness), the larg­er the cross sec­tion, the stronger the volt­age will with­stand the wire. If a large volt­age cur­rent is put into the wiring of a small sec­tion, it will sim­ply melt, which can cause a fire and a short cir­cuit.
The cross sec­tion of the wire is indi­cat­ed on its wind­ing, where you can find the num­bers (for exam­ple: 2.5 m2), this is the desired size. But it won’t tell you much. This is infor­ma­tion for an elec­tri­cian, and your task is to require him to com­plete the wiring dia­gram with the rat­ed pow­er of each out­let. This is the usu­al norm, which is includ­ed in the build­ing pass­port of the house (apart­ment)
IMPORTANT: if your home and life are dear to you, use only cop­per wire for the mains.
  • simul­ta­ne­ous inclu­sion of house­hold appli­ances and elec­tron­ic equip­ment in one sock­et, this may lead to the fail­ure of the lat­ter;
  • place­ment of an out­let above a sink or stove;
  • the inclu­sion of pow­er­ful units in one out­let, devices from the red and orange sec­tors of the table (see above) are con­nect­ed to sep­a­rate out­lets, and even bet­ter, they make an indi­vid­ual out­put from the shield for them.
There are more and more house­hold appli­ances in the kitchen — mix­ers, elec­tric ket­tles, toast­ers, com­bines, bread mak­ers … and there are sim­ply not enough sock­ets. They come to help retractable sock­ets type EVO­line Port (Ger­many).

They can be installed in a coun­ter­top, table, cab­i­net. Place both ver­ti­cal­ly and hor­i­zon­tal­ly. With and with­out phone jack. With and with­out lights…

And when they are not need­ed at all, just with one move­ment of the hand, hide them so that they are not vis­i­ble.

A unique sys­tem for con­nect­ing to the mains, as well as con­nect­ing to periph­er­al devices. Has inter­na­tion­al patents. Award­ed the “red­dot award” for ele­gant design and func­tion­al­i­ty.

  • Sil­ver anodized alu­minum body;
  • 3 sock­ets 2E+P VDE stan­dard (Union of Ger­man Elec­tri­cal Engi­neers);
  • net­work cable 2.5 m;
  • table­top thick­ness not more than 50 mm,
  • instal­la­tion hole with a diam­e­ter of 102 mm
  • Gen­er­al idea: retractable alu­minum mod­ule for con­nect­ing elec­tri­cal sock­ets of var­i­ous inter­na­tion­al stan­dards, with con­nec­tors for tele­phone and com­put­er net­works, with audio and video out­puts.
  • Easy instal­la­tion.
  • Exploita­tion: press the recess in the cov­er and pull the sock­et up, con­nect the cable and push the sock­et back. The cov­er will leave an open­ing for the con­nect­ed cables.
  • Appli­ca­tion: In the kitchen, in con­fer­ence rooms, offices, hotels — wher­ev­er design and order are need­ed. EVO­line® Port CUISINE.

The pro­ce­dure for mount­ing a retractable out­let in the bot­tom sur­face of the wall cab­i­net.

1. hang cab­i­net

2. drill a hole

3. insert sock­et

4–5. put on the fix­ing ring

6. fix the ring with screws (to the cou­pling and the plane of the cab­i­net)

For the coun­ter­top, every­thing is done in the same way, but in a mir­ror image.

In a slight­ly dif­fer­ent way, they hide in the coun­ter­top mor­tise built-in sock­ets.

They occu­py less depth of space and open when pressed like a book cov­er by turn­ing around its axis.

The cov­er and edg­ing of the open­ing of such a sock­et are made of anodized alu­minum, and the tech­ni­cal indi­ca­tors are sim­i­lar to the pre­vi­ous ver­sion.

Dealt with sock­ets. Now a few words about switch­es. It’s inter­est­ing, in most lan­guages ​​the name of this device is lit­er­al­ly trans­lat­ed as a switch, but it’s the oppo­site with us 🙂


It is very con­ve­nient to have switch­es at the entrance. You enter and turn on the gen­er­al light and the chan­de­lier above the din­ing area at the same time. Such a switch is locat­ed at a height of 100–115 cm from the floor lev­el and is equipped with a dim­mer that reg­u­lates the volt­age.

How­ev­er, in the kitchen at dif­fer­ent times of the day, we can per­form com­plete­ly dif­fer­ent actions. This is a seri­ous rea­son to install addi­tion­al switch­es near the din­ing table and work sur­face.

The instal­la­tion height is still the same (100–115 cm), it is advis­able to install the light switch above the work­ing area in line with sock­ets for small kitchen appli­ances.


A mod­ern home elec­tri­cal net­work is sim­ply impos­si­ble with­out an RCD (resid­ual cur­rent device, often referred to sim­ply as a “shield with auto­mat­ic devices”).

In addi­tion to being safe, it is also quite con­ve­nient. After all, if, for exam­ple, a refrig­er­a­tor is con­nect­ed to the machine through an RCD, if it fails, it will “knock out” the cor­re­spond­ing key, and the rest of the devices will work.

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